By Hugh Merwin
May 26, 2016
For six weeks, the editors of New York Magazine and Grub Street are publishinga series of definitive lists that declarethe absolute best versions of 101 things to eat, drink and do. It’s time now to wade through the piles of salted caramel Granny Smiths and lemon meringues to find the best pies.
The Absolute Best
Brooklyn Roasting Company, 25 Jay St., at John St., Dumbo; 718-514-2874
It’s been mere weeks since this new company debuted a line of savory (duck-and-collards, turmeric-tofu) and sweet (apple, pecan) mini-pies at Brooklyn Roasting Company locations throughout Manhattan and Brooklyn. Thing is, though, these individual-size pastries — blind-baked and double-crusted — have been vetted by a long list of presidents, prime ministers, and popes. They are the work of Bill Yosses, the former White House pastry chef we’ve been following since his humbler days of chocolate-chestnut bread-pudding ramekins at Joes’s Citarella. His plastic-wrapped and oven-safe paper pie “tins” may strike purists as disconcertingly non-tin-like, but rest assured the man President Obama (awesomely) dubbed “the Crustmaster” is cutting no corners with his post–1600 Pennsylvania Avenue endeavor. The dough is rolled by hand in a Long Island City commissary; the lattice work is exceptional. The huckleberries are West Coast and wild, and Yosses himself can’t stay away from the convection ovens long enough to stop working on new ideas.